The Millennium Falcon Build Diary Issue 63

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    De Agostini

    In this stage you continue to add sections to the upper frame of the Falcon. You also put together the large recess that will go aft of the port corridor and add some plant-on details to it. As with last time there are two frame sections to attach – TF-35 and TF-36. Before you can do that, however, you have to assemble the two parts of the radial rib supplied this time and attach that to the frame so the new sections can be screwed to the rib’s flanges.

    Parts needed:
    Hull frame section TF-35 supplied with Issue 63
    Hull frame section TF-36 supplied with Issue 63
    Radial rib inner section supplied with Issue 63
    Radial rib outer section supplied with Issue 63
    Rib connector supplied with Issue 63
    Four long brass-coloured machine screws
    Gather together nine short black button head screws
    Port rear recess supplied with Issue 63
    Recess liner supplied with Issue 63
    Sprue holding plant on details supplied with Issue 63


    Tools and other items needed
    If you do everything that is described in the Stage 63 Assembly section of the magazine you will need the following:
    Screwdriver supplied with Issue 2 or similar
    Side cutters or similar
    Craft knife
    Needle file or fine sanding pads or sticks
    Cutting board
    Cyanoacrylate instant glue, also known as superglue
    Cocktail sticks

    Assembling the top frames
    This is not the first time that you’ve assembled a radial rib but remember to support it properly when tightening the screws, and don’t put the connector on the wrong way up. After you’ve hooked the end of the inner rib under the turret ring by TF-34, you’ll have to hold the rib carefully in position when you screw the first of its flanges to TF-34, after that the screws should go in easily as you add them to the rib’s remaining flanges securing it to frame sections TF-33 and TF-32. Frame section TF-35 is screwed to the radial rib flanges adjacent to TF- 32 and TF-36 is added adjacent to TF-33. TF-36 and TF-35 stick out a bit on their own so don’t apply any force to them while you are working or by handling them roughly.

    frame 1

    frame 2

    frame 3

    frame 4

    frame 5

    frame 6

    frame 7

    frame 8

    frame 9

    frame 10

    frame 11

    frame 12

    frame 13

    frame 14

    Detailing the port recess
    You can put glue either on the pegs on the liner that fit into the holes of the recess or into the holes themselves, but whatever you do, press the liner into position firmly before the glue has had time to form its bonds. You can tell when it’s in properly by looking at the underside of the recess and seeing that the pegs are as far as they can go into their holes. A test run without glue will show you what to look for. Be careful when you file or cut excess plastic from part (1), especially on the side. Have a test fit of (1) and note that the end with the square moulding has a peg on its underside that fits into a matching hole in the liner. Put glue into both the holes in the liver before sticking it into place. When you cut (3) from the sprue, don’t accidentally cut off the peg from the end of the straight side and remove any excess plastic from its side with care. And with (4) watch out, again, that you do not cut off the peg from its end when removing from the sprue.

    details 1

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    details 22

    details 23

    details 24

    details 25

    details 26

    details 27

    Tidy up and store
    If you’ve taken the frame off the jig to work on it, put it back when you’ve finished so that it is properly supported. Put the recess with your store of sub-assemblies and put the sprue, with three unused details back in the Issue 63 parts pack so you know where to find it when you need it.

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