The "Hey. You lost her to me fair and square." build

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This topic contains 92 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  kazarn 2 weeks ago.

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    The finished construction. They are still yet to be painted.

    Front starboard

    Front port (you may recognise this one. Chewie is sitting on it while Han is yelling at him)

    Rear port

    Rear starboard

    Front centre



    Thanks Ged. Yep, have a go. Like Azimuth said, it’s very satisfying when you make it yourself.



    And to finish todays posting I am now at Issue 50. Yay. Halfway there. 🙂



    Yay ! , 1/2 way there ( sorta ! )

    Don’t mean to be a downer mate , but deago still haven’t made any ‘ updates ‘ re; the missing pieces ( external ) , nor any about our missing ‘ replacement ‘ cockpit , or whether Australia ( cause they assumed incorrectly ) will get the correct issues that Japan had !?

    Anyhoo , you seem to be chugging along brilliantly . Any idea/s how you’re gonna tackle the landing gear covers ?

    Cheers Ged ✌🏼



    The landing gear covers, yes. I was thinking of making them out of 1mm card, maybe 0.5. I’ll just copy the pattern from each cover as best I can and stick the sections on. I want to make the tri-door version like in ESB.

    In regards to the cockpit, I just left an update in the Aussie thread. We are getting revised nosecones sent over.

    • This reply was modified 7 months, 2 weeks ago by  oldmanemu. Reason: spelling


    I decided I would have a go at modifying panels TP-1 and TP-2. The tools I primarily used for this was a razor saw, jeweller files (rectangular, square and triangle), hobby knife and putty.

    Carefully line up the bottom edge of the side notches with the razor saw and cut through them until flush with the main wall section. A small line of plastic will remain on the top edge.

    Then use the rectangular file and carefully file away the excess line of plastic.

    Using the entire length of the file will help keep the groove straight. The small line of plastic will need very little force to remove. Unfortunately I had the vice up a little too tight and left some marks in the vertical bars. I will fill that with putty and file smooth later.



    Well I discovered that that was the easy part.

    I used a bobby knife with a flat blade to chisel out the rectangular notches. The blade was too wide to simply notch out in one go so I had to work each notch starting either side going in. Sorry, no pic. This really took a lot of spare hours over a few days and I was a little fed up after it and nearly gave up because the notches were crooked and looked pretty poor after spending so long on them. After having a break from it, I tried salvaging the parts by using a rectangular file and tried to straighten up the notches and get them square. I also used a hobby knife and triangular file to get into the corners and get them sharper.

    Some putty was also used. I often slipped with the file and hobby knife and left a few gouges in the plastic.

    Filing off, smoothing the putty and undercoating allows me to see where I am at. This was about the sixth time of filing, knife scraping, puttying and filing smooth and undercoating the notches that I did. Each time it slowly got the edges of the notches more and more square until I eventually started to get it ok. I then did a sand and final undercoat of the pieces.

    This was still not quite right as you can still see some knife marks in the corners.

    A couple more times of puttying and filing I was satisfied. It was as good as I was going to get it. As I tried to improve the piece more, I ended up making more scrapes and gouges as I slipped, so I stopped before I ruined it.

    Final undercoated pieces.

    • This reply was modified 7 months, 2 weeks ago by  oldmanemu.


    Jeez mate , a lotta bloody work went into that eh !? . Looks brilliant though !
    I took the easy way out by getting #1 – 4 from hlj , when we realised ( way back ) that we’d been sent old stock . Other #’s for spare ( chair for Nav – computer ! ) and parts .
    Sounds like a you put in a lot of time and effort to getting that area right . Not wanting to add to it , but , are you considering the ‘ notches ‘ on the curved ( bottom of said pieces ) panelling ? . I attempted that on the original Aussie pieces using a modified 2.5 – 3 mm screw driver ( filed down with sharpening stone ) to create them . So ‘ expletives galore !!! ‘ hard ! . Don’t know why we ( I ) do it ? Still didn’t turn out right , and too scared to try on the ‘ reasonable hlj parts . Model builders are just MAD !
    Guess we’ll be happy/satisfied , when we REALLY are ‘ happy & satisfied ‘ .
    Cheers Ged 👌🏼👍🏼



    (Vader in ROTS) Nooooooooooo!!

    C’mon Ged, don’t tell me that lol. I was using the ramp panel to gauge the groove and that doesn’t have any notches along the curve. But you’re right as i now noticed that the other sides bottom panel has notches in the curve. Bleh..i guess there’s going to be a part two for this story. You wouldn’t happen to be able to post some pics of the revised parts so i can see where the notches go please.



    Sorry mate , don’t have ‘ revised ‘ part pics as such , only what I’ve seen from various ( forums/sites ) other builders . You know , the ones who are REALLY into accuracy . Did sign up to that ‘Pin – interest site ‘ though , to get more screen/reference pics than just the numerous photo-bucket/personal cache of photos stuff . Trust me , all that info is terrific for reference/s , but also opens up a whole lot of ‘ just please kill me now ! ‘ . If you’re really into punishing yourself , check out what ianlawrance , or bwize did on their sites/threads . Ian’s on this forum and has his own website , bwize on the rpf site . Similar to what you achieved re ; TP-1 & TP2 , but they went nuts . In an amazing way . ” Don’t go into the light ! ” LOL !!!
    Cheers Ged 😩😜

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