The "Hey. You lost her to me fair and square." build

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This topic contains 92 replies, has 12 voices, and was last updated by  kazarn 2 weeks ago.

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    This is my build of the Deagostini Millennium Falcon.

    I am currently at Issue 49. I have put together the lower frame and painted my hull pieces in undercoat and then matt black paint. I won’t worry about showing that as it’s pretty boring I guess. As well as playing around with led’s, I’ve been trying out oil paints and have experimented on the first recess.

    I just used etch primer and matt black from an auto shop. I sprayed some AS20 going heavy to light, front to back.

    Next came a Burnt Umber wash this time light to heavy front to back. I used Winsor & Newton Artist oils. I kept adding coats and moving the paint around with thinners so it would appear that any dirt had accumulated to the rear of the recess.

    Some Citadel Boltgun Metal and Beaten Copper was drybrushed onto the pipes and finishing with Burnt Sienna highlights.

    In hindsight I probably should have done the Boltgun Metal before the oils, but I think I’ll just leave it for now. I’ll probably revisit this again and redo it, but this was my first attempt with oils and I thought it turned out ok I guess.



    I’ve been ‘accidentally’ making a new hold area. I was going to just add pieces to the original walls to make the hold longer but figured they’d be stronger as single pieces. I cut a floor as a guide but I might as well keep it now and perhaps stick a paragrafix floor on top. The paper template is still stuck on the floor and walls. The bunk area is now three centimetres longer so that big pipe goes behind the bunk. I debated about only making it two centimetres but decided on three. I’ll just have the batteries outside with a plug next to the landing leg to simulate a fuelling station. The back is extended by 5mm, not much but should open the doorway more. I have yet to cut the area away for the gun turret on the small wedge piece.

    I made the railings for the bunker side wall by making a paper template and then cutting out two pieces from 1mm plastic card. The inner section is 1.5mm. I couldn’t get 1.5mm card so made do with 1mm and 0.5mm and stuck them together.

    Here is a pic of the 1mm inner wall glued in place.

    And this is a pic using .5mm offcuts to make up the 1.5mm. The excess was trimmed off later.

    I made the horizontal bars separate. I’m hoping it will add strength. They were glued on and trimmed.

    The other outer piece is stuck down making a kind of sandwich. Note the ‘tongue and groove’ created at the bottom.

    I put all five together side by side in a vice and filed the edges carefully to get the edges even and smooth.



    There’s a tongue and groove type setup I’ve done so the rails sit stronger in their base. The base is 2mm thick strip of plastic with rectangles of 2mm strip glued on top slightly separated to make grooves for the rail ‘tongues’ to fit into.

    I used 25mm plastic tubing that I found at the local scrap yard to complete this section.

    Since this end of the hold has been extended by 3cm, it’s going to get tight for room. I chose to try and create an illusion of the hold not getting smaller on the opposite bunk wall side by not using all the overhead rails and sloping them into the back.

    I may need to trim the top of the third rail from the right to fit.

    Oh. I forgot I made a horizontal piece for the tube to rest on the same way I sandwiched the rails.

    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  oldmanemu.


    While building my hold sections I have been filling the ‘Deag damage’ on the panels with putty, sanding smooth and undercoating. I used a dremel with diamond bits to carve the new damage as close to the 32 inch as I could. The angle of the old Deag damage was slightly off on the landing bay section so I drew a new line with pencil to flow more into the nose damage and followed that.

    I had trouble seeing the new damage properly so I added some more undercoat so could judge my progress.

    The nose panel needs a tiny amount of filler and re-dremmelled so as not to look like claw scratches, but overall I am happy.



    Console Wall Railings

    My first attempts at scratchbuilding were monumental failures. My first scratchbuilding attempt before the bunk railings was the cockpit rear wall that broke apart and looked terrible anyway, and the coridoor floors that I tried punching holes in for lights. It literally looked like The Hulk went “HULK SMASH” lol. So please don’t think I am any expert at this, I am learning as I go. If at first you don’t succeed, try again. 🙂

    Again, I started by drawing a template from the new width, depth and height of the new hold area.

    This was scanned into the computer and duplicated 8 times and printed out. Another page was made with 5 for the inside of the railings. These are without the two horizontal beams and is slightly smaller at the front by 1mm.

    The first 8 are roughly cut out and stuck down on the 1mm plastic card with a gluestick. I found the gluestick holds the paper in place temporarily and is very easy to remove. The paper basically falls off after awhile. Using a steel ruler and hobby knife, score the edges. I found scoring and snapping larger straight sections first was easier. I found that a pair of small square nosed pliers helped a lot to ease the trickier score lines open like the inner corners without breaking and ruining the part.

    Same again for the inner sections but instead they are 1.5mm thick. I again stuck .5mm offcuts onto the 1mm pieces and trimmed off the excess. I didn’t waste sheets sticking whole ones together.

    With two outside 1mm pieces and one 1.5mm inside piece, I glued them together to make one rail. The two edge rails don’t have ‘outside’ pieces attached hence why I only needed 8 made.

    I bought a small $10 vice from the hardware store that has become so handy in filing the edges smooth. I place all the sections side by side in the vice and carefully file the edges to get uniformity. Yea, I should have taken a pic, sorry.

    The base is again made from 2mm card. It is one long strip with sections on top with separations for grooves so the tongues fit into them for strength. The front is filed on a slight angle.

    The top is 2mm card. It tapers down slightly from left to right as the roof slopes down.

    I am yet to finish this piece until I find some suitable tubing. I want 16mm diameter. I also need to make the downlight section but here’s a pic of it in the stock hold. It doesn’t quite fit as it will be set further back in the new hold.



    Some may remember that I said I had a mishap with the ramp. I had made a floor for it out of fine grade wet/dry sandpaper and glued it down. It looked good but after a few days it started to bubble and lift off in places. I guess it was because the superglue was not spread out evenly.

    I ended up scraping off all the paper and it was a mess. I had to scrape off all the hard dried superglue spots to get it even again. It seemed to be getting worse.

    Since I had scraped so much off I decided to remove that ‘step’ at the front and started filing straight down the centre to get it flat again. I also ended up removing those edges where the middle hydraulic arms go.

    So this is the ramp presently. The sandpaper is now replaced with .010 thick plastic card. I don’t know what that is in millimetres but it is paper thin. It was in one of the plastic card packets I bought, so came in handy. Hopefully that won’t bubble.

    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  oldmanemu.
    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  oldmanemu.


    Here are the templates for the railings I drew up. The pages are A4 size. Be aware they are for a customised hold and will probably not fit the standard hold properly. Note that I am making a stepped floor. There is a step down where Han and Chewie are repairing with their goggles along side the bunk. The first template has one 2mm floor section shown and the second has the two. The templates line up properly with the bottom ‘floor’. The height will need to be adjusted for the bunk rails to fit the standard Deagostini hold. The console wall rails may just need the horizontal rails shortened. Happy scratchbuilding. 🙂



    I have noticed from examining The Empire Strikes Back that some LED positions on templates do not match up to the film. The four main spotlights need to be further out, but that’s another story. The landing box on the rear has two red lights at the back. The rear of the Falcon can be seen in the scene where R2 and Threepio enter the hangar and Threepio is angry at R2 saying “it’s supposed to be freezing”. The challenge was to have all LED’s be replaceable should they ever blow and these particular LED’s will be in a place that will involve breaking off greeblie sections to get the rear landing box back off. I came up with this plan and so far things seem to be holding together. Hear me baby…

    Anyway…I will draw a hull diagram with all lights and update here when I am satisfied with their placement.

    I drilled the two 1mm holes for the lights. I bought a sprinkler hose pipe for $1. Thick and already light blocked. The inner diameter is 3mm. Perfect for a 3mm LED. I cut two short sections off and cut an angle in each.

    Drilled a small pilot hole through the outer hull and shone a torch in it to make sure I was not going to hit the landing box and stayed inside its wall. I slowly dremmelled the hole out until it was large enough to fit the tube. Filing the hole with a round file helped be able to angle the tube better. The plan was to line up the angled sprinkler pipe with the 1mm light hole.

    A pilot hole in the hull for fitting a downlight over the landing gear at a later stage can also be seen in my drawn guide rectangle.

    I used some milliput to hold the tube in place. So far it’s holding solid. The tube also had some grooves hacked into the sides to help it hold.

    You can see the matching downlight pilot hole in the landing box in this pic. (Sidenote: The landing gear was momentarily installed to get the position of the downlights that I liked and a pilot hole drilled through all three pieces (landing gear plate, landing gear box and hull) at once)

    The rear red light hole can be seen in this pic.

    With a little manoeuvering it slides into position.

    Now I can slide a 3mm LED down the tube. It fits perfectly down the tube. Any need to change a blown LED will be easy as it will now be a case of sliding one out and soldering up a new one and sliding the new one down. The same is now done for the other rear light.

    I probably should have mentioned this before, but I won’t be having the red LED’s visible. I am using a 1mm clear rod for all the red lights that will fill the holes and the red LED’s will illuminate the rod from behind. Here is a picture demonstrating this with a torch shining down the tube. Obviously the rod will be cut and fitted properly later and the light will be red. I prefer the softer glow it creates than the direct light from the red LED.



    Landing Gear

    Thanks to jinnai for giving me the legs.

    Rear legs. First off, after cleaning up the edges, I cut the front ‘toe’ off one pair with razor saw as I wanted the rears to be flat.

    The two section were glued together.

    The back edge of the ‘toe’ was filed flat so as to fit the ‘foot’ better after sawing.

    The ‘toe’ was then glued on and the arm glued on. It was easier to glue the arm and then trim it off rather than trying to trim off the little hinge and glue it on afterwards.

    The arm was trimmed off, but I kept it for later use.

    The rest of the assembly is standard, but paying attention to the orientation of the hydraulic lifters. They are incorrect in Deagostini’s instructions. An easy fix, but be aware of this if you want accuracy.

    And two assembled legs for the rear.



    This next part got fiddly and took a while to get right. Since I had placed the foot flat the little arm was now too short. I decided to try heating up pieces of sprue and stretching it out. I eventually got two separate sprues of different thickness that I was happy with. A small section of thicker stretched sprue was glued on the end of the thinner stretched sprue. The thicker one is about a millimetre thick.

    I made a template out of sprue to measure the length needed for the arm. It was impossible to get an accurate measurement with a ruler as it was too narrow to get in there, so I kept trimming the sprue till I got the right length. This also shows how much I stretched the sprue out.

    The end was cut as per the length of the template and glued on to the original leftover arm.

    And this is the final arm fitted onto the leg.

    It took me ages to wittle this arm from scratch.

    No, not really lol. I found it easier for the second arm to glue the extra arm length on the leftover arm first and then glue that to the thicker stretched sprue and file around it to make it smooth, and then trim the whole arm off the sprue.

    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  oldmanemu.
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