October 15, 2016 at 9:48 pm #24655
By the beard of Zeus, now that’s a sublight.
I noticed the very obvious gap in the middle when I installed mine today, I was under the assumption that the diffuser would ‘spread’ the light making the gap not noticeable.
Am I right in assuming the diffuser would do a good job of masking the gap?.. or would you still see a very obvious dim area in the middle like you say Daz?
I’ll be quite upset if the supplied sublight kit looks bad as this is a major feature which needs to look right.October 15, 2016 at 10:53 pm #24657
There’s a very obvious dark spot on Deag’s build diary photo – and that’s taken in daylight, it would be even more noticeable in the dark! I’m going to steal Daz’s idea for mine I think. Great work throughout Daz, much awesomeness!!October 16, 2016 at 6:53 am #24661
Hmm I may have to squeeze in just one little custom 3mm LED in between the two light strip units, to at least disguise this dark spot as much as possible.October 16, 2016 at 7:20 am #24664
Daz I am a complete novice when it comes to the electrics of this ship but I was thinking of copying your ideas. Are you able to give a step by step guide to the wiring you have done as I have ordered your two extra units, although the step down board I went off one already made!!
If you can explain what wires go where and why that would be great and are you still using batteries to power it or mains?
Massive thanks in advance and great build.October 16, 2016 at 8:33 am #24669
Nice work Daz, love the cockpit you’ve done and the rear lighting, I have rolls of the strip lighting, might have to try that. Let me know when you can get it to fly!!!!
MarkOctober 16, 2016 at 8:34 am #24670
I have a noob question. With the relay unit, does that send 12v to each channel or is it 12v split between them. I couldnt find an answer online, maybe the question was too noob lol. I’m assuming it sends out 12v per channel hence the the led looms you have attached and the fact you have the 6v sending out to the stepdown. hmm actually while typing i think i just answered my own question lol. Yea it outputs 12v per channel. That answers my second question i had…i would need a bucket load of batteries to power it with batteries. Hmm or does it only output 12v per channel USED so it would use 12v x channel or does it just auto output every channel, ie use 96v?October 16, 2016 at 9:25 am #24671
I think we’re going to need a Mr. Fusion to power this baby.October 16, 2016 at 9:26 am #24672
Thank you holycustard, subzero, hammerhand, robertostovelly, mark & oldmanemu for the kind words, comments and questions.
Subzero as there is a wider space between the two light strips in the middle of the housings than the distance between the LEDs on the strip you will get a dimmer area in the middle of the engine grill, adding LEDs to match the spacing of the LEDs will help but you will need to match the LEDs for the best results the LEDs on the strip are 3528 SMD with a 300R resistor connected to each LED. Or you could replace the strip with a (3528 300 led 5M Strip Light Car SMD DC 12V Lamp Flexible Cool White Tape) at about £4.59 on ebay link:-
Use the new strip 7 segments on one connector for most of the housing and if needed one of the supplied strip cut to fill the other end to give a full light effect across the housing.
Robertostovelly If you can post some close-up pictures of the boards you have obtained here so I can check the setup then I can do a guide for you, is that ok! but it will take a couple of days to do the graphics.
Mark when the sub-lights went to full power I thought the thing would fly into the wall, the effect was just like in the movies. I don’t think I’ll use the supplied grill I like the idea of the engines being open, I only hope than a good replacement grill will be available soon at shapeways.
Oldmanemu the relay is a 12Volt RF unit so it uses 12 volts to switch the relays, but each relay has its own power input at the centre of the relay, the power is switched to the outer connectors one is Normal On the other Normal Off. You can use AC or DC voltage with the relays, I setup all the relay with a chain of wire at 12Volts to the centre of each relay, one relay sends power at 12V to the step down board that powers the supplied control board via the battery pack connection. So the whole electric system runs off a 12 Volt 30 Watts LED Driver more than enough for the ships needs, each relay is just a switch controlled by remote, it doesn’t increase the voltage needed, so that it draws the power it needs that is why you need a power supply that has enough wattage to run the electrics or you will overload you supply and can cause it to over heat or blow. I only have two power levels 12Volts and 6Volts, the more lights fitted the greater the wattage used, LEDs have a Forward Current of 20mA (typical) upto 30mA (max) and it soon adds up so keep is in mind when adding lights.
October 16, 2016 at 10:05 am #24674
- This reply was modified 8 months, 1 week ago by Daz.
Yea i’m lost now. How do they even switch lights then? I thought since channel 1 was going to the stepdown, channel 2 could be the red lights, channel 3 could be white lights, channel 4 could be ramp light, 5 could be cockpit, 6 could be engines and so forth. I thought the relay just sent power to different places? Hmm. Thanks for trying to explain though.October 16, 2016 at 10:12 am #24675
Wait. So the relay uses 12v to switch channels…you can have multiple channels on or off but it only uses 12v when you press the remote….its not continuous? I hope i get it now lol. So where is the power supply? 110v (or 240v here in Aus) cant plug directly into that..can it?
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.