Modification to Falcon by Daz

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This topic contains 134 replies, has 25 voices, and was last updated by  pretorius 1 week ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 11 through 20 (of 135 total)
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  • #24019

    Subzero
    Participant

    That’s some phenomenal custom work, excellent stuff!!

    #24027

    windy437
    Participant

    Brilliant. I wish I had the skills and knowledge to do this. Get work.

    #24028

    Mark
    Participant

    Stunning work Daz, love all the lighting features. Still have mine to do, trying to finish the second mandible, then on to the electronics as we are getting closer to fitting the hold and corridor areas in. Soldering iron at the ready.
    Stunning work, well done.
    Mark

    #24068

    callumstock
    Participant

    Are all these lights a custom job or will we be issued with them?

    #24071

    Daz
    Participant

    Thank you Subzero, windy437 and Mark for the kind comments, there are so many fantastic builds on this forum it’s a joy to see the extra level of detail that is being added to an already great model. I’ve got some ideas for my own build from you all, I can’t thank you enough! I’m planning on adding some extra rooms of the inside thanks to Mark leading the way.

    Windy437 it’s not so much having the skills as taking your time, slow & steady and you’ll get there, as for knowledge YouTube is our friend just like the many forums out there, if you get stuck just ask! Someone will know what to do.

    Yes callemstock the lights are all my work, I’ve only used two of the supplied lights on the build so far the ramp light and one mandible headlight, but both of these have been modified and can be dimmed using a trim pot resistor. So if you what extra lights you will have to get the LED’s, resistors and wire, then do some soldering yourself or buy a lighting kit for this model there are not cheat and connect into the supplied control board & wiring. I’ve kept my lighting modification separate from the supplied components and the whole lot is power by a 30 Watt LED Driver running at 12 Volts the control board gets its power via a 6 Volt step down module.

    While I wait for the next set of issues I’m going to return to the cockpit I’m using the paragrafix cockpit, I’ve modified the supplied back seats, the floor and I’m working on replacing the window glass one pain at a time. I’ll have to paint the cockpit before fitting the glass (acetate) and sorting the lights.

    • This reply was modified 11 months ago by  Daz.
    #24466

    Daz
    Participant

    Hello again! I’ve been working on modifying the cockpit using “Etched Brass – BPC sci-fi decking” from Antenociti’s Workshop Ltd for the cockpit floor, the “Falcon Cockpit” from ParaGrafix for the control panel & cockpit bulkhead, 0.25mm fibre optics for the “left & right Instrument Panels”, SMD LED’s for lighting the control panel & deck plate and modifying the cockpit’s base, bulkhead & passenger seats.
    First up the supplied passenger seats.
    To improve the look of them instead of buying replacements I reshaped the supplied seats, here is the difference a little simple work can make to allow these seat to be positioned at any angle in the cockpit.

    To start with I took the standard seat and fitted a piece of 1mm thick styrene card into back recess of the seat then filled the back of the seat with perfect plastic putty. The head rest part needed extra putty added when the first lot had dried out.

    When it was dry is was sanded flat, if at this point you see gaps in the filler just add more and let it dry again before sanding flat.

    The head rest was now shaped, taking the top side edge off using a smooth sand paper glued to a piece of thin wood. As I removed the plastic the putty starts to show and this can help you to gauge the angle you are sanding at trying to keep the line of putty showing straight and even, not angled like a wedge. Matching the two side as you go, to get the final shape.

    Once the sides are shaped the top can be curve down to the back of the seat instead of having it flat.

    The rails on the back of the seat were made using a piece of 4mm x 2mm I-Beam with some holes drilled the trimmed to shape. A couple of styrene offcuts were added to the bottom of the rail for extra detail.

    The square fitting on the bottom of the seat was cut off using a craft knife a thin sliver at a time until it was removed completely. A 4mm hole was drilled through the seat for a 4mm plastic post to be fitted this will allow the seat to turn to any angle.

    To cover the top of the hole I had just drilled, I make a seat pad from a little styrene offcut, rounding off the edge and another pad for the back, I used a thin file to cut some extra grooves across the back of the seat just below were the pad will go then glued the pads in place.

    I removed the square seat locaters from the cockpit base and added two round plastic spacers from an old meccano set, then re-drilled the hole to 4mm for the seat post to fit.

    I made a paper template of the deck area cutting out the 4 seat fittings and the area for the centre control panel, I used this to cut the “Etched Brass – BPC sci-fi decking” to shape allowing for the side instrument panels to fit plastic to plastic. I test fitted the brass and taped the edge were there was no brass with masking tape then removed the brass leaving the tape to show the shape of the brass deck plate. I drilled guide holes into the cockpit base to show where I wanted the corners of the cut-out’s to be remembering to leave a plastic gap around the edge to glue the brass down later, then carefully cutting with a disc cutter in my dremel to the corner holes. Finishing with a craft knife, small files and sanding sticks.

    The top of the centre control panel was also removed before gluing the brass with thick super glue.

    The seats were primed grey as was the centre control panel and cockpit bulkhead were primed grey before painting.



    The cockpit was given a coat of gun metal paint with an airbrush and then some extra black paint was added to the airbrush to darken the paint to get a patchy look to the inside surfaces. The holes in the control panel were filled with Micro Kristal Klear. The side instrument panels were drilled for the fibre optics, the smallest drill I had was 0.4mm but the fibre optics are only 0.25mm. Fortunately heating the end of the fibre optics to mushroom it makes the fibres fit into the larger holes. I used a strip of 6 LED’s attached to a piece of black styrene to light the control panel but the light didn’t reach the sides of the front panel.

    To correct this I used a 3 LED strip with the wire running from the end of the strip going along the LED’s so I could fold the strip onto itself so only 2 LED’s show, shining out to the sides of the front panel.

    This strip was connected to the middle of the centre of the larger strip.

    This solved the light problem now for some colour using the decal as a guide I painted the lights using tamiya clear red & blue, I wasn’t to bothered about a little paint going over the edge of the brass as the decal will cover it.


    I added the 0.25mm fibre optics gluing them in using the same Micro Kristal Klear used earlier.

    I added a green 0603 SMD LED fitted with a 1K resistor to the bottom of the central control panel an extra trim pot (variable risistor) will be added so I can dim this LED to the right level later as it is too bright and over powers the warm white glow at the back of the cockpit.


    The rear bulkhead was cut using the template from paragrafix but I didn’t cut the outer rim to allow light to shine through, I intend to use cool white 0603 SMD LED’s fitted to the black rim around the bulkhead to light the panels it should give a better result and a stronger cockpit join. I’m just waiting for these LED’s to arrive from China, first lot never arrived.

    Well that were I’m at now.

    #24469

    pretorius
    Participant

    Thats cool work….

    I am doing same to a spare cockpit chair, but transforming it into the computer console chair, good to see what can be done.

    #24470

    Subzero
    Participant

    Those main console lights are probably the nicest looking ones iv’e seen, and the flooring lighting effect with the photoetch looks amazing!

    #24653

    Daz
    Participant

    Thank you Pretorius & Subzero for the comments.
    Had a good day today, issues 86-89 arrived and some offer items I ordered also came, so I left the cockpit for the moment and started to sort the Sub-light drive housings.
    First I cut away the raised rim that divides the two sections from issue 87 & 88 at the central area as shown below making sure the part was the right way round, repeated for both sides, to leave one channel for the light strip to fit into, instead of having two sections for two strips of LEDs.


    I used some aluminium foil tape to cover the central join around the housing to block any light leaks from the join. I’ll be making a light box later to funnel the light out the back of the engine.
    I tested the supplied LED strip and wasn’t impressed with the level of light or the size as when the two strips are placed as pre the instructions you get a dim area in the middle.

    So I tried a new strip and the result was overwhelming, what a difference. The answer was a 12Volt double row 3528 LED strip that has 120 LEDs per metre, I’ve used a single length with 15 segments each has 6 LEDs a total of 90 LEDs just a couple more than what was supplied, but there is no way you could safely connect that to the supplied board. So it was a good job I planned for this right at the start of my build.



    Before fitting the LED strip I spread some contact adhesive over the area the strip will stick to and left it to dry for 5 minutes, so that the strip get a good join when it is pressed down and won’t lift off.

    With the strip glued down the sub-light housing is done, I was pleased the double row LED strip fitted so well and that I got the right width. There is no light gap across the housing so I won’t have a dim area in the middle.

    I connected the light strip up to my 8 channel RF relay board using two relays the first relay controls the power on/off to the sub-light engines, when the power is on it is sent to the second relay so that when this relay is in the off position the power travels through a 20K trim pot so I can control how dim the light is, when the relay is in the on position the light get full power all 12Volts.

    Thank you for looking in, if you have any question please ask! And I’ll try to answer them.

    #24654

    holycustard
    Participant

    holy sublights that looks awesome. 😀

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