Modification to Falcon by Daz

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This topic contains 141 replies, has 27 voices, and was last updated by  kazarn 3 months ago.

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    Hi Ged!
    For the base coat I used Tamiya AS20 spray cans, the main painting is done using Tamiya acrylic paints with my fine detailing airbrush, then with power pigments, gloss varnish, colour washes finally mat varnish.

    You asked:- Give us clue to the diorama you’re building

    Well I could! The hope is to do a scene inside Echo Base, I might do the landed falcon scene as in the movie or to give it a twist I might do the scene from the opposite side of the hanger bay with the falcon flying into the bay about to touchdown with the landing legs down.

    • This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by  Daz.
    • This reply was modified 5 months, 1 week ago by  Daz.


    Hey Daz ,

    The news on your diorama is ( pun intended ) sooo cool ! 😜 Thing is , that’s what I’ve been planning to do as well ( mentioned earlier over in the Aussie thread ) .
    I’d even purchased 2x Bandai snowspeeders and a Revell/FineMolds xwing , along with having a varied collection of styrofoam for the Echo base scene configured in my head !

    I realise that the deago MF is approx 1/43 on the outside – 1/48 inside , and the other kits I’ve mentioned are 1/48 , but the people I know , who’ll see it won’t be any wiser unfortunately ! 😴 … Do have an older 1/43ish Original MPC xwing , but was advised to just forget using that ( due to inaccuracies ? ) and leave it on the wardrobe .

    Anyhoo , keep up the great work and please continue to share .

    Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼



    Hi Ged!
    Yes! Echo Base was the first idea for a display right at the start before I even got issue 1, the other idea was the hanger bay on the Death Star using black Perspex for the floor, white painted trim around the deck lifts and grey Perspex for the back wall. I think Echo Base will give a greater visual impact for people who see the end display.

    You may remember a while back I trimmed the fans on my lathe so they would fit into the fan housings as the fan was about 1mm higher than the space inside the fan housing, well I removed some more height from the fan reducing the fans height be about 2.5mm to 3mm to give me a gap of about 1.5mm between the fan and the hull so a small 0603 SMD LED will backlight the fan inside the housing.

    Once all the fans were reduce to the correct size I painted the fans and housings with 2 coats of black primer on both sides then 1 coat of flat black to totally block any light from shining through when the LED’s are on. The top of the grill was covered with vinyl to mask the grill before spraying a grey ring around the grill.

    The back of the fan was painted silver and was glued to the inside of the fan housing, you can see the fan sits below the fan housing giving me the gap I needed a small disc of aluminium foil was placed inside the centre of the fan to reflect the light back down from the LED’s

    Disc’s of aluminium foil with the centres cut-out were placed over the area for the fans, this has two prepresses,
    1:- It reflects daylight so the fan can be seen through the grill much easier than if it was just the painted plastic.
    2:- it will bounce the LED’s light out backlighting the fan giving a glow under the fan.
    To attach the fan housing I didn’t use glue, but tulip fabric paint, it can be used as gap filler, light block and it hold the parts together like glue, a bead of paint around the edge of the fan housings position on the hull and then fan housing with its fan is pressed into place after a about 10 minutes the housing is stuck, leaving it overnight to fully dry.

    Now a larger disc of vinyl is place over the grill and the edge detail around the grill to mask it before painting with AS-20, to play safe each disc had a pin hole in the centre that was cover with a folded piece of masking tape which was attached to each disc to help remove the vinyl disc after painting. If the masking tape comes off when trying to remove the disc a pin can be used through the hole to lift the disc from the centre.

    You can see who the vinyl disc have protected the grill and the detail ring around it from the base coat of AS-20 paint the disc’s were left on until the final painting was done then removed completely.

    In the dark you just get a small backlight glow from the fans when the sub-light engines are on.

    A while back I cut between the vector plate and fitted the DeAgo Falcon Exhaust Plates For The Ion drive from Shapeways, but I also cut the Exhaust Plates into separate sections and glued them in place with superglue even though the designer said “but you can’t glue it so I’ve made the plates, where they can be Key bonded with ABS plastic through slits on the underside of each plate”.
    I painted the inside surface of the vector plate to match the outer surfaces, then sprayed greys and a light coat of black between the grill as if the plates were getting scorched from the sub-light engines, lastly the grill was removed and painted.

    Masking the panels that needed colours took quite a long time, matching the size of the masking tape to the size of the notches in the panels made of a better finish so only the panel get painted and not the notch.

    To recreate the red rectangles on the hull I used a piece of 2mm x 10mm wood strip and cut a small notch so it was 2mm x 7mm, for the smaller red block I cut the other end to 2mm x 3.5mm. The end was dipped into the red paint and the excess removed by dabbing it on a piece of paper until the paint was starting to fade, then pressed onto the hull rocking up-down & left-right to get the red block with a slightly darker edge. It pays to test this method on some scrap plastic to get the correct effect before doing it on the hull.

    I found that my relay board needs to be paired with the remote control if it hasn’t had power for a number of days, as I don’t want to keep removing the rear of the falcon’s hull to press the reset button I had an idea. I would drill a hole in the rear section over the button and push a brass rod down onto the button, to guide the rod onto the button I would use a plastic tube placed over the raised button I drilled a hole into the metal frame to hold the top of the tube no glue was used to hold the tube. With both ends of the tube held in place the tube was cut flush with the frame and I tested the button worked using the brass rod.

    When I was happy I aligned the rear section of the hull and marked the position for the hole to be drilled through the plastic, now I can pair the board with the remote without having to remove the rear hull section, just push the rod through the hole right onto the button every time.

    I designed a name plate for the build and printed it on the 3D printer then painted it, well it took longer to print it than it did to design.

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by  Daz.


    I started to put the landing legs together with the 3D printed parts I’ve made, I’m still working on the doors as I need to change the way the doors connect to the landing legs, so when the legs are removed the doors and legs come away as one part.

    • This reply was modified 4 months ago by  Daz.


    Brill work Daz, very nice indeed.
    Love the engine fans looks really impressive.
    I will definitely be doing something like yourself on the Falcon Exhaust Plates.



    Thank you Pretorius!
    The work on the legs continued by making some fittings to attach the landing leg doors to the inserts for the landing legs using the 3D printer as I didn’t want the doors attached to the sides of the recesses as this would stop the landing legs from being remove and replaced with closed doors.
    The cone shaped fitting for the base insert for the landing legs:-

    The flat fittings for the landing leg doors:-

    I used a brass rod to position the cone shaped fittings to the base inserts for the landing legs and used superglue to fix it in place.

    Then removed the printed connections from the doors making the area flat and smooth before making the doors where the new flat fitting will go with a pencil.

    Using the brass rod again to position the flat fitting on the underside of the door using the pencil mark to align the fittings with each other.

    Brass rods were bent to the shape needed with a 15 degree bend that fits inside the flat fittings, then a 90 degree bend to fit into the cone shaped fitting. After the first one was made and checked I drew along the shape on some paper to make a template for the rest to be made the same shape and size.

    With all the doors fitted the brass shaped parts were glued to the 3D printed fitting to fix them in place. Now the landing legs can be fitted or removed as one piece and with electrical contacts used to on the legs as well as the recesses, by simply fitting the landing legs the connections for the lights are made, No need to connect wires under the ship’s hull.

    After painting and adding colour pigments to the landing legs they were given a coat of matt varnish.

    At last I was able to finish the painting and varnishing the hull here is the end result:-



    Bravo mate , brilliantly made and finished (?), missing parts coming soon eh! .

    It’s been a real treat following your build since you started ( on here ) , and a real joy seeing all your mods & scratch work . The electronic stuff ( most of it ) was way above my head though 😩 .
    Just finished watching your video , ( again Daz ) , terrific looking paintwork & weathering ( especially like the way some oil streaks / stains flow in the direction they do – during forward atmospheric flights !? ) .

    Have you considered offering some of your 3D parts ( looking at landing legs / hatches-covers 😉 ) for sale ?
    If they were reasonably priced ( not – some Shapeways $$$ ! ) , some would be interested , myself definitely 😜

    Anyhoo , thanks again for sharing & inspiring , and congratulations .

    Cheers Ged 👍🏼👌🏼✌🏼

    • This reply was modified 3 months, 1 week ago by  gedmac66. Reason: Adding more


    P.s. Soooo , envious of your knowledge ( electronics ) and skill throughout 😳



    Your Falcon looks amazing, thanks for taking the time to share the pics…..



    Thank you gedmac66 and Hum for the kind words!

    It was a shame the Photobucket did what they did, stuffed up a lot of work, I still getting all my posts ready in word to re-enter the information with the picture into another thread as we can’t edit old posts on this forum.

    Ged I’m sorry I can’t offer my 3D parts for sale, I print each part separately in case there is a problem with a print i.e. windows does an unexpected reboot or the program just crashes or the print head hits the part already printed pushing the print base over spoiling the print. Mind the cost of printing in 3D using PLA Filament is very low the parts I made for the two rear landing legs came to about 1 British Pound, but the landing bay doors were from shapeways, I didn’t design or print them but I may give designing them a go.

    I’ve mainly been using Tinkercad a very simply online cad program, by just adding shapes together or make some shapes into holes to remove areas to make more complex items, then export the .stl file into the printers own program to slice it and then print. Here is the link to tinkercad:-

    If you know anyone with a 3D printer I could find a way to make the .stl files available for anyone to use, but here’s an idea; drop BIG HINTS FOR A 3D PRINTER FOR X-MAS, the price has dropped a lot and you can get them quite cheaply these days and the ladies like to make things for crafting project’s behind your back.

    Ged as for you being envious of my knowledge ( electronics ) and skill throughout, it just take time to do it! I can hardly see what I’m doing these days even with strong magnifiers as I’m going blind again. Working by touch and finding novel ways around things is how I work, working very slowly indeed!

    I’m still waiting for the missing parts to finish the Falcon shouldn’t be much longer now to wait.

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