March 29, 2017 at 9:42 am #28362
So when are you doing the working recoil on the cannons when they fire?March 29, 2017 at 12:29 pm #28365
What I didn’t like was the price of the shapeways offerings and with having TP-1 & Tp-2 spare why not use them to save some money it was a fun little project making the circuitry bay room.
While talking about shapeways I got the replacement Landing Leg Doors today, but they set 9 correct doors and one duplicate door so I still don’t have a up set of doors, not even with the other set. I just couldn’t believe it.
Bizmuth you said,” So when are you doing the working recoil on the cannons when they fire?”
Seeing your post made my laugh, I so needed that!, I only wish I could make the guns recoil it would look great, but the servos won’t fit into the body of the guns what a shame. LOL!
April 9, 2017 at 11:39 am #28441
- This reply was modified 6 months, 4 weeks ago by Daz.
Great work Daz, I’m from the north east too, Sunderland.April 9, 2017 at 3:12 pm #28442
Hello Darkview! I lived in Sunderland for most of my life. Moved out to East Rainton a number of years ago, theirs not many good model shops in the Tyne & Wear area these days.
Well I’ve been busy in the garden with the good weather we’ve been having, so I haven’t done to much on the falcon, but I’ve just finished wiring the landing legs to light them and fitted magnets so I can swap the closed doors with the legs in seconds.
NO NEED TO MESS AROUND WITH CONNECTIONS JUST CLICK THE LEGS IN PLACE WITH THE MAGNETS AND THE SEPERATE ELECTRICAL CONNECTIONS ARE MADE!!!… I’LL POST PICTURES SOON!
I still need to finish putting the legs together and paint them, I’ve also sorted most of the electrics for the lower hull, cockpit, dish and mandibles. Some more work needed for the hold, corridors, gun ports and a couple of connectors for the upper hull section before I can close the ship. I’m hoping to be able to start painting again in the next month.April 11, 2017 at 2:27 pm #28457
Hello today I’m going to show you how I added lights to the landing legs and setting the magnets to allow the legs to be swapped with the closed landing leg doors.
1:- I drilled a 0.7mm hole in the landing legs mounting plate where I wanted the light to be.
2:- I used a round cutter bit to make a rounded hole using the drilled hole as a guide, but making sure I don’t go to deep. The small hole will get blocked by the hot plastic filling in the hole as the rounded hole is made.
3:- The small hole is reopened using the 0.7mm drill.
4:- A warm white pre-wired 0603 SMD LED is fitted into the hole and glued at an angle using thick gap filling CA glue, when set extra CA glue is used to make a lens around the LED filling the rounded hole level with the mounting plate.
5:- Now to set the magnets I used 8mm round magnets that are 2mm thick, the area where the magnets will go is a little tight so I widened it by about 1mm, I make a stack of magnets put a small piece of masking tape onto the top one then remove it from the stack and added another small piece of masking tape onto the top of the next magnet.
6:- I placed a piece of clink film over the bottom of the magnet not the side with the masking tape. Now add a 3mm round magnet 4mm thick with the clink film between the two magnets.
7:- Now wrap the clink film around the larger magnet and put some thick CA glue around the sides of the 3mm magnets.
8:- Insert the magnet into the round hole at the end of the long slot of the underside of the mounting plate, making sure the larger magnet is flat to the plastic, this will set the smaller magnet to the correct height in the hole. Leave the magnets to allow the glue to set, the clink film will stop any extra glue from sticking the two magnets together.
9:- Cut the LED’s wires to the correct length and solder some thin brass pieces to the end of the wires. I used some of the leftover brass from my paragrafix hold floor fret, as it was just the right width for the job!.
10:- The wires with the brass soldered to them can now be glued in place with CA glue making sure they are spaced the same on each side, leaving a gap larger than the brass piece between the end of the brass and the magnets
11:- I widened the holes in the hull base that the legs mounting plate pins fit into using a 3.2mm drill bit this is so the mounting plate can be removed without the pins sticking in the holes. Check the fit of the mounting plate, but if you haven’t got the leg fitted or haven’t added some means to remove the mounting plate from the recess then please fit a leg part to the mounting plate even if it isn’t fully built.
Two extra 3mm holes were drilled for the wires to be fitted, the + wire will have a 1K resistor fitted to it so that the 12volts won’t blow the LED’s.
12:- Now cover the whole base with clink film so the CA glue won’t stick the mounting plate to the hull. Then remove the making tape from the larger magnets and place onto the magnets already set into the mounting plate with the clink film between them.
13:- Add the CA glue onto the larger magnets and fit the mounting plate into the recess press down for a couple of minutes then leave to set fully, remove the mounting plate to see if the magnet has glued into place. Don’t worry if it is still on the underside of the mounting plate and not in the recess as it might need more glue to fill the gap between the magnet and the hull recess. I found some of the magnets are a little thinner than the 2mm and so need extra glue layers to fill the gap.
14:- Measure the position of the brass on the mounting plate and transfer this to the hull recess.
15:- Mark out the position for the second brass pieces to go and mark the polarity for the wires.
16:- The wires can be fitted now note that the brass is twice the size of the first pieces of brass fitted to the leg mounting plate, it also has a bend in the middle of it, this is so half can be glued down onto the recess while the other half is bent up to make the contact with the brass fitted onto the leg mounting plate.
17:- Connect the wires to a power supply and fine turn the shape of the bend in the brass so it make a good contact with the leg mounting plate, this may take a couple of test fittings before the light comes on.
18:- To help make the switch over quicker from flight mode to landing mode I added a larger magnet to the underside of the closed landing leg doors, By using a stack of magnets I can lift the closed doors with ease. Then fit the landing legs, the connection is made as the mounting plate clicks into place, held by the magnets so it takes second to fit the legs and have the lights working by remote.
I almost forgot to fit the two red lights on the side of the cockpit tube, so I opened up the cockpit tube and drilled two 3mm holes in the band area. I put a blob of CA glue onto the back of two red pre-wired 0603 SMD LED’s and let them dry before fitting them to the holes using aluminium tape, then filled the holes with clear silicon. The wires had to have a small groove filed into the cockpits back wall so they don’t get nipped when the two halves of the cockpit tube are fitted together.
With a 1K resistor fitted to the + wire and a 10K trim pot also fitted I can adjust the power the lights get without having to worry about blowing the LED’s.
April 12, 2017 at 11:36 am #28468
G’day Daz , thanks for sharing your innovations and ideas .
Will most likely ‘ borrow ‘ some of the ones ( I’m hoping to be confident in tackling ) eventually .
Your landing bays – magnets and lighting look terrific .
What are you planning re; the landing doors ( covers ) when ‘ down ‘ ? . I.e not in flight mode .
One more question , please . I’ve asked about what glueing solution to use re ; leds / fibre optics , and was advised against CA ( super glue ) due to the damage it may/causes . You’ve used it on th the SMD LEDs . Have you found ( so far ) any detrimental effects on these components ? .
Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼April 12, 2017 at 5:02 pm #28470
Hello Ged! Thank you for your comments.
The plan is to cut two notches into each side of the mounting plate to attach the shapeway tri-fold landing leg doors, if I need extra support for the tabs on the tri-fold doors then I’ll use a piece of brass to help brace the join. The whole leg mount with the doors attached will be able to be removed as one piece.
Ged you asked, “I’ve asked about what glueing solution to use re ; leds / fibre optics , and was advised against CA ( super glue ) due to the damage it may/causes . You’ve used it on th the SMD LEDs . Have you found ( so far ) any detrimental effects on these components ?”
As for fibre optics I would stay clear of using CA glue as it turns the fibre optic brittle, I would use a PVA glue, personally I use (formula ‘560’ canopy glue), some people use hot glue, but you need to be careful the heat doesn’t melt the fibre optic .
I’ve used Thick CA glue for many years with no ill effects on the SMD LED’s, for 2mm, 3mm, 5mm LED’s I use Epoxy Resin, sometime even using this to light up a larger area evenly with a 0603 SMD LED on a control panel like I have just been doing with the corridors.
April 13, 2017 at 2:21 am #28473
- This reply was modified 6 months, 1 week ago by Daz.
Thanks for replying @Daz ,
I’ve also used PVA and hot glue for my fibre optics and LEDs ( cockpit ) after getting good advice on this forum . Having never used SMD’s before ( but hoping to within this build – hold area , and possibly corridors ) , was needing insight as to what ‘ worked ‘ in securing them without damage .
Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼May 15, 2017 at 5:44 pm #28639
The gun port access tube side walls had a set-in small flat area in the pad section, I cut this area out and added a piece of the control panel brass from my paragrafix hold floor that I didn’t use over the hole. Then added some epoxy resin to the backside of the wall and inserted a 0603 SMD LED to light the panel.
The top & bottom sections were cut-off around the tube and the sidewalls removed leaving the curved pads of the tube with a small strip of plastic to hold them together.
I cut a piece of 40mm waste pipe to the same length as the gun port access tube and cut the section out to allow the small corridor to fit into the pipe. Two sections of LED strips were glue down the length of the pipe to light the tube, a round plastic mirror was added to the top & bottom of the pipe to bounce the light back into the tube.
I added more 0603 SMD LED’s to the corridor tubes and epoxied them in place, them covered them with Black Tulip fabric paint to light block them. The ends of the open curved tubes were covered with round plastic mirrors.
The brass panels of the straight corridor were also lighted the same way.
To make a working light for the bunk space I used 3mm styrene tube to make a ‘T’ piece, the top tube had a 1.5mm hole drilled into the centre a pre-wired 0603 SMD LED was pushed through the hole and out one side it is easier doing it this way.
A small section about 3mm long of tubing that is able to fit inside the 3mm tubing is used to stop the led from going back into the 3mm tube. It needs a slot cut down its length so the wires can be pushed inside the tube, this small section is then glued flush with the 3mm tube end, when set the LED can be glued flat the end of the tube.
Repeat for the other side, a vertical piece of 3mm tube can be glued to the centre of the first tube with the wires running down the inside of the tube(file the top of this tube with a round file to get a better fit before threading the wires through).
To make the light fittings I use the clear tube from a paint brush used to protect the bristles, it was just the right size cut to length and filled with clear silicone glue, then pushed onto the end of the 3mm tube by about 1.5mm. Any excess silicone glue was removed to leave a flush end to the tube.
When dry I added two black plastic discs cut using a leather punch and fitted the light to the bunk area.
The hold was at last fitted together with two extra rooms added, the switch room and another room under the Rectenna Dish, the dish motor & gearbox will fill most of this room so it will look like Han fitted it into a space it wasn’t meant to go as it was a military unit.
I used the shapeways technical station instead of the one supplied and fitted it with LED strips to light the control panels. I rubbed of some paint from the buttons to light the as well. A large hole had to be cut into the hold walls for the top gun port, the top of the technical station had to be adjusted a little too.
I removed the sub-light engine to replace the card temple with styrene sheet, I put same wide masking tape over the sub-light housing and rubbed a pencil around the edge and marked the holes that you secure the housing to the hull with, then attached the card template to the front before carefully removing both from the housing then placing it onto a A3 styrene sheet. After cutting it and drilling the holes.
I cut the metal frame to allow the plastic to fit flat from the sub-light housing to the outer edge of the hull frame. With the plastic over the securing pins and a couple of screws to hold the plastic in place I cut the excess off flush to the frame.
I then removed the screws and widened the holes so it fits flat to the underside of the housing, after painting I glued it with contact adhesive and some screws along the front edge.
I used 2mm square styrene strips to frame the gun ports, as I’m not using fibre optics I drilled the holes a little larger using 0.8mm drill then Micro Kristal Klear and when dry some Tamiya clear paints. I cut some styrene sheet to fit around the 2mm strips and fitted the LED segments with wires.
The lower gun port was made from white strong plastic while the top one was Frosted Ultra Detail, the top one could have the button light-up as well so two extra light panels were added to the lower section of this gun port and the paint rubbed off the buttons with some Tamiya clear paints to colour the buttons.
I made a 20mm tube to go between the gun ports in the gap, it was glued to the lower gun port then a 40mm length of waste pipe place over it with a LED strip in-line with the corridor to light the tube.
I checked the alignment of the top gun port with the hull closed before gluing the top gun port onto the hold walls.
I took the supplied power socket and cut the wires from the switch removed the green wire, then moved the black wire over to the green wires connection as I’m not using the switch for the power, but to control the flashing warning lights on the side docking hatches.
I cut 3 x 3mm pieces of styrene, glued them together and drilled a 9mm hole then squared sides of the hole at one end to match the power socket, I drilled a 9mm hole in the aft port quarter to fit the power supply out of sight.
With the two parts of the hull together the extra shapeways parts can be seen through the removable panels, the cockpit tube corridor has a different design of pads, but that’s OK!
The hold fits well and the gearbox for the Rectenna Dishes can be seen.
On the back of the ship I’ve added 6 SMD LED’s to the centre of the vent positions to light the fans from underneath.
I did notice a hole in the hull next to the cockpit tube I filled this triangular hole with scraps of styrene.
The flashing warning lights on the side docking hatches had to be set-in to miss the metal frame.
May 15, 2017 at 10:28 pm #28642
You must be logged in to reply to this topic.