Modification to Falcon by Daz

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This topic contains 141 replies, has 27 voices, and was last updated by  kazarn 1 month, 1 week ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 101 through 110 (of 142 total)
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    Jeez mate ,

    There’s modding and then there’s ‘ Daz ‘ modding ! …a whole new realm 😝 .
    Don’t/can’t remember seeing any other builds fo the Deagostini Falcon that comes close to yours re ; electronics and lighting…

    Couldn’t even contemplate attempting what you’ve done so far . Simply incredible .

    Thanks for sharing , and really looking forward to seeing it all up and ready for it’s first jump into ‘ hyperspace ‘ !!!

    Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼. P.s , where you situated ?



    Amazing technical work, I love the fact somebody has managed to motorise the dish, I went to attempt this and couldn’t do it due to not being able to find a suitable program for my Arduino board.

    How are you controlling the dish?, will it constantly rotate on it’s own or will you have full directional control over it?



    Hello Ged, Thank you for that mate! The electronics and lighting isn’t as hard as it first looks when you break it down, it’s simple! you makeup one set of 3 to 4 lights then add the next and before you know it, you’ve got Spaghetti Junction. It’s just planning what you want the end result to look like then working out the best way to do it. This has been the most complex lighting setup I’ve done to date. I enjoy soldering and can get a little carried away, the cockpit was so much fun, seeing the light sets grow until the whole thing was done. I had a train layout as a child and made the lighting system for it and I think that was where I got the lighting bug. Since seeing Star Wars in 1977 I so wanted the Millennium Falcon, but never got the chance to build one until now, so I want it to look the best I can.
    I live in the Tyne & Wear area of Northeast England UK.

    Thank you Subzero The dish is controlled by the 16 channel RF relay board, the board uses SPDT relays which is great to switch circuits on/off or to switch between two circuits, but to change the polarity to a motor (switch the motor’s direction) needed a DPDT relay switch.
    The following graphics show how I connected two relays from my relay board to a separate DPDT relay. Relay 1 controls the power On/Off running to the motor through the separate DPDT relay. Relay 2 controls the power that energizes the separate DPDT relay changing this switch.

    In the first picture there is no power going to the motor, relay 1 is in an off state and relay 2 is in an off state, so there is no power going to the separate DPDT relay so it isn’t energized and is in its default state. There is no movement on the motor.

    In the second picture there is power going to the motor, relay 1 is in an on state and relay 2 is in an off state so there is no power energizing the separate DPDT relay so it is in its default state, the power running from relay 1 is sent to the positive terminal on the motor, while the ground wire is connected to the negative terminal of the motor. There is now clockwise movement on the motor.

    In the last picture there is power going to the motor, relay 1 is in an on state and relay 2 is also in an on state, so there is power energizing the separate DPDT relay so it changes the switch over to the other terminals and the power running from relay 1 is sent to the negative terminal on the motor, while the ground is now connected to the positive terminal of the motor. There is now counter clockwise movement on the motor.

    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  Daz.
    • This reply was modified 8 months ago by  Daz.


    Wow that’s some work put in right there, I’d love to see a vid of the dish in action when you’ve finished it.

    I planned on using a stepper motor and was going to control it with an IR remote and an Arduino clone, but the only program I could find suitable for full direction and start/stop control made the motor get hot when in idle mode, so I decided to get rid of it otherwise I could have ended up with a flame lit Falcon lol.



    Hi Daz, anymore updates mate? I cant wait to see more!



    Sorry for the delay Cunumdrum, I’ve been waiting for items to arrive from the Far-East and I just got them the other day, so I’ve been working on fitting them! so my next update will be posted as soon as I’m finished.

    I just got my Open Landing Bay Tri-Fold Doors out to get them painted and found that Shapeways had sent my three duplicate doors so I only have two full sets of doors and I’m missing three doors to complete the other three sets of doors. I’ve contacted Shapeways but I don’t hold much hope about getting them replaced not when I ordered them at the end of November 2016, there must have been more than one set getting printed at the same time and parts got mixed-up.
    I should have looked more closely when they arrived, so it looks like I’ll have to pay for their mistakes, I’ll keep you posted what happens. Anyhow here is the pictures of the doors next to their correct placements.

    I’ve worked out what items will be controlled be the 16 channel remote and have made the last circuit board I needed for the falcon, information to follow soon.

    • This reply was modified 7 months, 1 week ago by  Daz.


    Update on the Landing Leg Doors Shapeways are going to replace them.

    I decided to make a circuitry bay to fit behind the open door in the hold area, at first I was going to use styrene card to make it then I had an idea!…
    Why not use the incorrect TP-1 & TP-2 to make the bay, after all I got the improved French version of these parts even these had to be corrected along the front edges. A quick measure and Yes! They will do nicely, I had to work out were to cut to parts to get the best fit, I used one part from TP-1 & 3 parts from TP-2.

    The two small panels were glued at an angle to the central panel, this would have left a ‘V’ shaped channel along the back of the join so to strengthen it I added extra Thick CA glue along the join and added a length of tubing to the channel a piece of styrene was glued to the side panel that will fit next to the 90 degree corner overlapping the edge be about 3mm to help strengthen that join later.

    With the two sections painted and a 0603 SMD LED fitted into the larger blue rectangle box to light the bay all that is needed is the floor, that I’ll do when if do the final assembly of the internal fittings.

    After seeing itchy’s Great Idea using acrylic tube to support his Falcon I decided to do the same the first tube I got was a tube with a 150mm outside measurement, but the inside measurement was a little too small and would fit over the gun turret properly. So I got a 160mm wide tube and that fitted great after cutting same pieces out to fit around the raised details. With a piece of wide masking tape wrapped around the back of the tube and the ship angled on the bed I use a rotating laser level that was also set on an angle to get the compound angle I wanted. With the laser on I pencilled along the red line around the back then wrap the remaining tape around the front to complete the pencil line around the whole tube, the tube was cut using a Dremel drill fitted with a metal cutting wheel just above the pencil line the finish with a belt sander to get a flat even edge.

    In issue 94 we a glued the two details part 10 & 11 from the sprue from issue 93 these fitted onto part SP-07 that fits between the mandible, to add lights in this area I drilled out the centre of the two details after the glue had fully set. Then fitted 2 x 5mm flat top white LED’s the placement was of the holes missed the metal frame and the magnets, the wiring was done so that I can unplug the lights to remove SP-07 from the frame work.

    I wanted to light the quad gun barrels but I wanted them to look like they were firing, after a good long hunt online I found the right board for the job. A 12V 4-Way LED Strobe Flash Controller Kits that can deal with up to 1Amp per channel in a led chaser pattern the flash rate is controlled by the Trimpot, as this is a kit of parts, but no instructions are included only a picture of the finish board on the website and the print on the board itself to work from extra care was needed. At first when the board was finished I couldn’t get the test LED’s to work then I found that you needed to send the +wire to the LED’s and connect the –wire to the wires on the board. Only one light was on so after many turns of the screw on the Trimpot the lights start to change getting faster the more turns of the screw, I set it so the light was on for about 0.5 second before the next channel went on .

    The test was done to identify the lights pattern I didn’t want the gun lights to flash in sequence e.g. :- 1,2,3,4 as this would case a 0.5 second flash from one pair of barrels on the top gun then a 0.5 second flash on the other pair of barrels then a 1 second pause before the pattern would repeat .
    To get the pattern right I connected channels 1,3 to the top gun and 2,4 to the bottom gun this give my an even 0.5 second flash on the upper barrels of top gun, then a pause of 0.5 second as the upper barrels of the lower gun lights up, then the lower barrels of the top gun light up for 0.5 second, then another 0.5 second pause as the lower barrels of the lower gun lights up, this sequence is repeated.

    I threaded three wires through the gun mount on one side there was one for the + wire and two -wires on the other side of the mount, I then threaded the my pre-wired orange 0603 SMD LED’s through the gun barrels grouping all the +wires together using a wire clip then cut them to length, stripped the wires and soldered them to the single wire threaded through the gun mount, repeated for the –wires connecting them to one of the two wires on the other side of the mount. When the lower half of the quad gun was wired I repeated for the top half, but this time I connected the + wires to the other +wires from the lower half and the -wires to the second -wire from the mount.
    The +wires are connected to the 12Volt supply and the two –wires to two the channel wires with a 4.7K resistor to protect the LED’s and dim the light down to the level I wanted. The three connections inside the guns main body were covered with shrink tubing and the gun put together then fitted.

    The lights were tested and the Trimpot adjusted to get the right flash pattern

    I obtained a replacement dejarik game board from Shapeways the one for fibre optics by 308 Bits, but instead of just having the lights around the board I wanted the board to also light up. So I put a piece of masking tape over a scrap of thin styrene card and drilled a 0.5mm hold to set the point of a compass to mark a 20mm circle & a 11mm circle I drilled the centre hole larger finishing with a file up to the mark and then cut out the outer circle . Next I cut across the ring so it could fit around the underside of the table and checked the fit, I then glue 4 x 0603 SMD LED’s around the ring before feeding the wire through the table, then fitted the ring with super glue and connected the wires to test the effect. To stop the light leaks around the ring I used black tulip fabric paint, the red & blue lights are just Tamiya clear used to fill the 0.5mm holes. I still need to give the table another coat of paint, but you can see how it will look.

    At last I’ve been able to start to assemble the hold and got my Paragrafix hold floor down the two pit are lit by YES! You’ve guest it! 4 x 0603 SMD LED’s to get the glow around the pit I used Aluminium tape as a reflector around the top of the pit walls and strips of stencil plastic sheet around the back of the pit insert with all the holes in it. The circuitry bay was test fitted and the lights checked so far it’s going well.

    • This reply was modified 7 months ago by  Daz.
    • This reply was modified 7 months ago by  Daz.


    Terrific updates @Daz .
    Love the dejarik table all lit up .
    But the really jaw dropping post/photos ( for me ) , are the ones of your ‘ hold floor , or rather , what you’ve done under it ! . All that added pipe work and detailing . Wow 😳!!
    You must have a plan/idea already as to how it’s gonna sit inside right ? , cause , I was hoping to emulate what others have done re ; the one pit I’m adding to my build due to the restrictions of space underneath – plus the fact that there’s another part to be ‘ modified ‘ that the whole hold needs to be attached too further down the track ( only on # 53 here ) . Simply amazing .

    Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼



    Thank you gedmac66 for those kind words!

    To answer your question “You must have a plan/idea already as to how it’s gonna sit inside right?”, Yes it all fits inside great and the top half of the hull fits nicely I used the supplied hold floor support to help me get the correct placement of the hold and to gauge the size of the support walls I made. I used a profiling guide like what you use to get the correct shapes for fitting laminate flooring to get the shape of the hull right, then it was a case of cutting the parts and a lot of test fitting to get the shape & size perfect for the top to fit. To hold the new support wall in the correct place while the supplied support was in place I fitted the new support walls and then the hold floor, small pieces of 4mm x 2mm styrene strips were glued to the inside of the hull to hold the support walls, making sure I didn’t glue them to the hull as well.

    Then I cut-out the hole in the hold floor so you can see the details below.

    The underfloor is on a slope so it misses the metal frame and the holes for the pit were cut into the 3mm thick styrene to align with the paragrafix hold floor.

    Then all the detail was added using scraps of styrene and other little bits that I had, painted with gun metal, then the wires were held in place using ‘U’ shaped strips then drilling a small hole in places to thread a needle through, using sewing thread as cable ties looped over the wire and back through the hole.

    It was a pain having to wait until issue 89 to get the supplied support, but at least with it I could be sure that the hold was in the right place and at the right height.



    I like that idea of reusing tp1 and 2 for the room. It looks better than the shapeways offerings.

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