Modification to Falcon by Daz

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This topic contains 122 replies, has 25 voices, and was last updated by  oldmanemu 1 month ago.

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  • #23783

    Daz
    Participant

    Hello I’ve been slowly working on my Falcon painting and adding lights I’ve left most of the internal parts for now as I don’t need them yet.

    The electrics have been reworked, removing the supplied power sockets and switch, which I think was in a bad place when the ship is completed and displayed. The switch was replace by using a mother board jumper to connect two of the three pins in J1, found out which pins need to be connected using my test meter on the power and switch cable, you can see jumpers placement in the picture below. The power line will be place on the opposite side exactly were is yet to be decided, also I’m using 12Volts going to the ship to power both a 12Volt circuit as well as a 6Volts circuit via a step down board for the supplied control board. Raised platforms were made from thick Styrene Sheet to support the step down module and a RF replay board that I’m using to control the extra lighting I’m fitting.

    With the raised platforms in place the extra boards can be fitted without them touching the metal frame. The 12Volt power enters the ship going to the RF Relay and the + wire goes to the centre connection on each relay. Relay 1 is use to control the power to the step down module were the 12Volts is reduced to 6Volt the output goes to the supplied board and there is 5x2pin connectors which also are 6Volts on the module that can be used for output to other items. I’m using one of these to supply power to the ramp lights so the light is on all the time and doesn’t go out when the ramp start to go up, I also added a trim pot to the ramp light to reduce the power so the light is dimmed.

    There is a lot of extra wiring that’s been added as you can see, still need to route the wires fixing them when I have completed the lower section lights. I added 3mm white flat top LEDs for the landing lights and the angled landing lights on the central sections between the mandibles, 2mm red flat top LEDs for the warning lights and pre wired red 0603 SMD LEDs for the recesses all these lights are running on 12Volts.

    #23795

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    Wow awsome. So can you do mine now lol

    #23796

    sketchy2
    Participant

    Could you take a photo of the lights close up on the flip side with out them on mate. Looks excellent man.

    #23810

    Daz
    Participant

    Thank you!

    I’m sorry oldmanemu I wouldn’t want to spoil the fun of doing it for yourself. LOL!

    Sketchy2 I hope this is what you wanted to see some close-ups of the lights, the white 3mm flat top LED’s for the landing lights are mounted flush to the hull.

    The red 2mm flat top LED’s for the warning lights were shaped using a sharpener from a 2mm lead mechanical pencil lightly turned to remove the edge and give the LED a better shape, I found the round top 2mm LED’s were too short to fit through the hull.

    The angled landing lights were made by drilling the centre of the circular details installed in issue 37 to the Hull Panel BP-28 to form a reflector with a 3mm hole in its centre for the LED’s. The white 3mm flat top LED’s for the angled landing lights were push though the hull so that it was held in place only by the last part of the LED before the wires.


    The lights for the recesses are so small they can be hidden between some of the details added to the recesses.

    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Daz.
    • This reply was modified 9 months, 1 week ago by  Daz.
    • This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by  Daz.
    #23813

    Daz
    Participant

    Here is a little video to show the lights getting controlled using the RF remote and how the ramp looks better with the light remaining on as the ramp goes up.

    • This reply was modified 8 months, 2 weeks ago by  Daz.
    #23815

    ajmallinson
    Participant

    Love the lights in the recesses, they look amazing

    #23816

    FalconBuilder
    Participant

    It is not necessary to buy flat top LEDs. If you only have round top LEDs, simply file down or cut off the round end and polish the exposed flat surface with fine sanding pads (up to 12000 grit). As long as you do not cut into the metal element in the base end of the LED, you are fine to remove that unwanted plastic material.

    #23818

    S4Simon
    Participant

    That’s a really nice lighting job. Thanks for posting. It’s always nice to see something new – love the pit lights.

    #23819

    sketchy2
    Participant

    Thanx for the pics, exactly what I wanted to see. Great f-ing work.
    Now….how much to make me one??😁

    #24018

    Daz
    Participant

    The mandibles were put together as normal up to a point, I wanted to screw the outer side panels and headlight unit to the frame as I would rather use screws were I can but I will use magnets on the inner side panels to hold these in place, I didn’t want to glue the side panels to the metal frame.
    Before fitting the sections of the mandibles together I added a downward facing white LED to the front of the lower mandibles and a red 0603 SMD LED to each of the recesses. The wires are held in place using epoxy resin.

    I then added the side metal frames, using 20mm x 2mm round magnet, a 8mm x 2mm magnet is placed onto the larger magnet it will slide to the edge aligning its poles it’s then glued in place with super glue only on the side were the inner panels fit making sure they don’t stick up above the top of the frames. Four sets of magnets are used.

    The smaller magnet fits inside the gap in the frame and the surface is flush with the frame. The plastic panels have a 1.5mm gap between the back of the panel and the metal frame. I found that you can get 12mm x 1.5mm magnetic adhesive tape that fills the gap and will hold the panel to the magnets, to keep the tape fixed I used contact adhesive on the back of the panel, waited for it to dry about 5 minutes then pressed the tape onto the middle of the panel.

    Before connecting the top panels to the side frames I painted the resin around the white light with black tulip slick (dimensional fabric paint) it thick, blocks out the light and stick to all the surfaces well.

    The inside of the headlight piece was also coated with tulip slick, in the movies you see the Falcon coming in to land with red warning light from the headlights (ESB landing at cloud city and in other movies). I thought that would be a nice touch, so I added a red SMD LED to the light fitting glued with super glue to the top edge of the 5mm LED, with the RF control I can now switch from red headlight to white.




    As I’m going to use the RF controller that is on a 12Volt circuit I needed to add an extra resistor to the headlight wire so I added a 680 resistor to the 180 resistor already on the headlight board and put on a new connector to the shorten wires in case I need to remove the mandibles in the future to do repairs.

    I’m planning to use the magnets for the side panels around the ship so I can gain full access to the interior for repairs and further mod’s.

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