Help – what paint can I use to colour light

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This topic contains 4 replies, has 3 voices, and was last updated by  FalconBuilder 4 months, 3 weeks ago.

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    Hi everyone

    Right – im currently building the Cockpit and am using the paragrafix set to in it. Everything was going great and to cut a long story short I’ve made an absolute mess of the decals.

    I still want to use the paragrafix set but don’t want to pay 40 quid for a new decal set from the US. As I’ve used klear Kote on the back panels is there a a paint I could use that will colour the cockpit lights.




    Yes rokerroar their is a paint you can use to colour you lights, get Tamiya Clear Paints X-23 Blue, X-24 Yellow, X-25 Green, X-26 Orange and X-27 Red, I’ve used these to colour the back of my paragrafix & shapeways items. Just use a thin coat and check with a light add another coat if you want a darker colour light.

    Here is a link for Paragrafix PGX193A Replacement Cokckpit Decals For Damaged PGX193 Decals:-

    • This reply was modified 4 months, 3 weeks ago by  Daz.


    Thanks Daz for the advice and the link.

    I note your decals look perfect so if you don’t mind me asking, how did you do them?.

    I used decal fix for mine but the things would not come off the paper and ended up tearing so might try warm water when the replacement decals arrive



    Your welcome rokerroar!

    I used a grey acrylic paint on the brass for a base coat before I used Micro Kristal Klear to fill the hole in the brass from the back. Then I gave the grey paint a thin coat of water based clear gloss varnish to seal the paint, the Humbrol DecalFix will soften the acrylic paint due to its thinners and the gloss varnish protects the colour paint from running over the holes darkening the lights or even blocking the light altogether.

    Cut you decals as close to the edge as you can, test fit them while they are dry, when your happy with the fit put a coat of DecalFix over the area were the decal will go, then put the decal in warm water NOT HOT! for a quick soak, the decal will release from the backing paper in a couple of seconds. Slide the decal off the paper by a couple of mm’s with a soft brush so you can lift the paper with the decal on it with tweezers without touching or damaging the decal, position it as close to the final position as possible and using the soft brush guide the decal off the paper onto the brass, check the position with a back light to check the light shines through the holes in the brass and isn’t getting blocked by the decal, slide the decal with the brush until it is in the correct place and the light shines through all the holes and the decal. If the decal starts to stick before you have the position right wet it with water over the decal.

    When your happy with the position leave it to dry, the DecalFix behind the decal will soften it and it will start to form to the details on the brass, it will wrinkle at first but it will smooth out when dry. Repeat for the other decal panels and when all are fitted give the whole thing another coat of DecalFix with a soft brush lightly brushing over the decal, when it dries you can give it a coat of varnish if you like for extra protection.

    You while notice the lights aren’t coloured much mainly white so using Tamiya Clear paints on the back to give the lights a bit of colour.

    Well that’s what I did, Paragrafix Decals are delicate and will tear very easily, they are other methods for fixing decal and it is always a good idea check around for information on places like YouTube.



    A less expensive alternative to purchasing the Tamiya transparent color paint jars is to buy a cheap suncatcher kit from the hobby store. These are the plastic frames that you then color with the supplied clear color paints from small pots, let dry, and hang in a window for the sun to shine through. The shape of the suncatcher frame is not relevant if all you want is a small supply of the various colored paints–red, yellow, orange, green, blue, purple, etc.

    Just paint the opening in the panel with a small drop of the color from behind, allowing the paint to fill the hole without running all over the front. Let it dry. Put a light behind it. One light “powers” all the lights on the panel, regardless of color. Protect against light leaks.

    These same paints work well for coloring the inside ends of fiber optic strands. Put a colored drop on the end of the strand and let it dry. Bundle all your strands of multiple colors and put a light source up to them. The outer end of your fiber optics will then have the correct color on your instrument panel. There is no need for a separate light source for each color; white works just fine.

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