Australia Thread

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This topic contains 876 replies, has 46 voices, and was last updated by  oldmanemu 1 month, 1 week ago.

Viewing 10 posts - 861 through 870 (of 877 total)
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  • #28697

    gedmac66
    Participant

    Hey @oldmanemu , that’s something I haven’t come across ( some pics would be very welcomed ) . Do you envisage any problems when attaching the rear engine ‘ grill ‘ ? , seeings how the side panels on either side are supposed to ‘ overlap ‘ that area .
    Cheers Ged 👍🏼

    #28698

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    I tried looking around for a Youtube vid but couldn’t find one. A guy called Craig Lee is posting videos of his work on Facebook. I’m basically copying him. You get rid of that notch and put the metal side walls on the inside. It gives about 3 or 4mm extra to the ledge. That 3mm does make a difference imo. This is a pic of the notch I removed.

    Between the white line (the dremmelled off notch) and the metal frame is where the metal side wall is supposed to go, then the plastic side wall on top of that. So with the metal side wall on the inside, the plastic sidewall will now fit inbetween the white line and the metal frame instead.
    I didn’t remove the front notches, top and bottom yet, as I want to see how the mandibles fit. If it doesn’t work it should have no effect on anything and the walls can go back to how they are originally on the outside. That notch isn’t structural.
    I’m not worried about the grill. It’s pretty horrible and I will no doubt replace it anyway. My concern is the outer joins for the mandibles, mainly the port side.

    • This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  oldmanemu.
    • This reply was modified 2 months, 3 weeks ago by  oldmanemu.
    #28703

    gedmac66
    Participant

    Thanks for sharing Freddie , so apart from it’s obvious aesthetic ( deeper situ side walls and greater overhang ceilings/floors ) , it should also aid in more firmly attaching the mandibles right ?

    Cheers Ged 👍🏼✌🏼

    #28706

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    I don’t think it will affect the mandibles at all.

    #28710

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    Well, i’ve got the top frame put together now. Just got to redo the damage on the panels before putting them all on. I got my first quote back for a case. 1000mm L by 800mm W by 300mm H, acrylic no base. $223.

    #28711

    Hum
    Participant

    Thats not too bad, I haven’t decided how to display mine yet, at this stage I’m thinking landing legs down on a landing platform, just have to make one.

    #28712

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    Next quote, $340. That said “bent and glued”. I guess that’s one long piece and they bend two sides down and glue on the other two ends. Not sure if i like that design tbh, i think i prefer the ‘fishtank box’ look.

    #28713

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    $286 for the last quote. This is also ‘bent and glued’. The first one probably is too, i didnt ask and he didnt say in the email. Hmm.

    #28714

    oldmanemu
    Participant

    The first quote was a bit misleading. GST wasn’t included in the price, after i had another look at the email. Scumbags, pretty sure its the law for our prices to include the gst to prevent surprises later. Meh its still the cheaper though…but they’re scumbags.

    #28747

    gedmac66
    Participant

    G’day gang , I need some help/advice please concerning 3D parts .
    I’ve just ordered the lamp for the bunk/bed in the hold area and from gathered info ( once received ) will need to be ‘ soapy ‘ washed before painting . Thing is , apart from the ‘ centre ‘ being painted , how would I treat the ‘ lighted ‘ areas ? . I naturally want them to imitate ‘ white lights ‘ when switched on , but how do I protect them from future damage ie. UV ?. Would covering it before installation with a matt/semi-gloss clear coat after help ? .
    Cheers Ged

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